Anyway, I was surprised to see his name in the U.K.’s Daily Mail today. There were photographs of him working on the North Shore in some pretty gnarly conditions. 15-foot waves were breaking in supershallow water. See the photo above? He’s in the soup—he can’t even duck dive that wall.
His wife took photos of him taking photos. So meta.
I would freak out if I were her. When you get tossed under, does your camera strap choke you? Does the camera hit you on the head? Check out the story and his work (links above)—and also, look at the snippy British comments below the Mail story. Dude! Kindly remove the driftwood from your bum.